 Racing improves the breed. How many times have you heard that old saying? Nowhere can this evolution be seen more clearly than in the design of riding gear. Perhaps it is not their intent, but through competition, racers become ultimate crash test dummies. The results of their "Road Testing" can teach street riders plenty about how to safely participate in the sport. Protective gear is serious business. Spyder Leatherworks understands the importance of high quality, properly fitting safety equipment. That's why our racers want street riders to benefit from their knowledge. Racers can tend to pretty picky about their gear, especially when a product has saved their hides a time or two. Available choices in riding gear can run the gamut. One set of leathers might be capable of surviving a 200 mph crash at Daytona, while the next set wouldn't hold up in a 30MPH street crash. How do you, the consumer, decide which gear is a valuable purchase? Based on years of inspecting and repairing the crashed riding gear of racers, Spyder Leatherworks has come up with an informative guide. |
Options abound in leather and textile riding gear. The level of quality not only varies by manufacturer, but also within a particular brand. Here's what to look for: For street use: Textile (Cordura/Kevlar) or leather? Leather has the best abrasion resistance, and textile gear will also protect you in the event of a crash however both will get rashed up. Leather can generally be repaired, where as textile is much more difficult to repair and can be a "single use" item. The benefits of textile garments are that you will be more likely to use them if it's warm out. Again, it's not protective if you don't wear it. 2 piece or one piece? It really depends on your needs. 2 piece leathers will serve you well if you mostly ride on the street and occasionally at a track day. You will need a one piece suit if you like to do track days regularly or you race. |
For street use, protective armor is recommended, but not necessary. Many jackets and pants come with reinforced areas in the shoulders, elbows and knees. Any garment without armor or this reinforcement may be a fashion statement rather than offer any real protection. Armor helps dissipate impact forces and will be another line of defense should you wear a hole in your gear during a crash. There are several types of armor, from soft impact armor, to harder, molded type with a layer of soft padding. Most armor is removable and each brand is different, don't be afraid to really check out the gear you are buying. Try on any garment to make sure the armor falls in the proper place and is comfortable. |
Yes, this is where it gets confusing and Spyder Leatherworks can really help you. It doesn't matter whether you ride on the street or the track; this will affect your buying decisions the most. First off, decide on the most you will be willing to spend on your gear. You will get what you pay for up to a point. Then, really look over what you are buying. It helps to be able to see the stuff you're considering, but that's not possible over the internet, so pay particular attention to the info they give you for each garment. Leather thickness or weight (cowhide): 1.2mm or 2.5 oz is on the lighter side while 1.8mm or 3.5 oz is on the heavy side. Most will be in between. Kangaroo will be thinner and lighter, due to its superior strength to cowhide. It's also more expensive. To perf or not to perf? Some feel that perforations compromise the integrity of the leather. I really haven't seen that over the years. Perf offers the luxury of air conditioning when it's really hot. For street use, however, if you ride during cold weather, you may need extra layers to keep out the wind. Seam Construction: My personal favorite. You want to look for seams that have integrity. Manufacturers are looking to keep costs low, and this is a place where they can do that. Beware of the parallel stitched seam. There will often be a set of side by side lines of stitching, usually joining two flat pieces of leather or leather to stretch panels. If these seams fall in an impact area, they can open up. The best seam is a conventionally stitched closed seam that is top stitched. This is the strongest and is usually found where the sleeve meets the body. Everything in between has varying degrees of strength. Often there will be additional pieces of leather top stitched in impact areas, either on top of or inside the garment. |
Stretch panels are usually found in the sleeves, groin and calf areas. Most times they are made of Keprotec or other abrasion resistant textiles. Linings: Some linings zipper out and can be washed, others do not. This does not affect the overall protectiveness of the gear. Some street gear is available with a zip out quilted lining. This is very useful for chilly days and nights. Leather garments should fit snug, but not tight. If they flap in the wind, it can be not only annoying, but also dangerous in the event of a crash. The garment could incur additional stress and either tumble the rider, or expose flesh areas it's meant to protect by riding up or coming open. Armor should fall over the areas it's meant to cover, like elbows, knees and shoulders. |
For street use, a good basic pair of gloves and boots will suffice. Gloves should fit well and provide full finger and knuckle coverage. Manufacturers are constantly using new construction methods and materials, including carbon fiber and Kevlar. This increases the cost, but also adds another level of protection. Boots should be at least ankle high for street use, 6-8" high for track/race use. Riding boots have features like an extra pad for contacting the shift lever, and ankle padding. Race boots have reinforced ankle padding, toe sliders, heel guards and extra support. Find a pair that fits well as comfort is key. Back protectors: For track day and race use, they are not meant to prevent spinal injuries, but to offer an additional layer of protection from impact and abrasion. Highly recommended for any time you take to the track. Look for a back protector that is well constructed. Retailers carry or can order a variety of styles, including vests with impact foam, turtle shells and ones made of overlapping plates. |
While I might put it at the end of this discussion, it is a critical component. Your gear should fit well, not too big or too loose. Gloves that are too large will impair your throttle and brake control, boots that are too small will hurt and affect the quality of your ride, and maybe your ability to use the shift lever or rear brake. |
All helmets are not created equal! Look for certifications at the back of the helmet. They are as follows:
Helmets don't work unless you use them. You need one for your passenger as well. Helmets that have been crashed or dropped should be replaced. Most helmet manufacturers will examine a helmet that has had an impact (sometimes for a fee) and let you know whether your helmet still meets their standards. Ask your retailer for more info. Some complain that helmet use will limit their vision and ability to hear. NHSTA statistics show that a rider can compensate for the slight loss of peripheral vision by turning their head a bit more, and that there is no loss of critical traffic sound when wearing a helmet. In fact, in many cases, helmet-wearing riders can hear better than their helmetless counterparts while on the move, due to not having the constant roar of wind in their ears. Add the statistics that show helmet use reduces head injury significantly, there's no good reason for not wearing a helmet. Some complain they won't wear a helmet because it messes up their hair. Get over yourself, unless you want really nice hair in your casket. Some think that helmets aren't cool. Really, with all the off the chain graphics readily available, and painters out there willing to customize your lid…anyone not wearing their helmet is the real loser . |
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